Spiti Valley - New year, new adventure | Thrillophilia

 Paradise found 🙇: "Spiti Valley"

(A journey of a thousand miles, begins with a single step - Lao Tzu)

@Cold mountain desert - Spiti Valley

There is no denying the fact that, covid19 pandemic has changed our world. For which have to postpone my plan for sometimes (April 2020 - December 2021). As things start getting back to the socalled new normal, so as the roads open, all i want was to be back on road trip, and feel the sense of freedom, that I had been missing since last two years, during the pandemic. 

It was Jan (2022) end,  when me and one of friend (Pooja), decided to go on a trip. And this time I choose "Spiti Valley", Himachal Pradesh. "Spiti" means the "middle land", i.e. the land between Tibet and India. It was one my travel bucket list, a dream travel destination. 

I started looking into different travel organisation adventure trip packages, finally liked "Thrillophilia, Spiti Valley Winter Tour" package. We decided to go during holi week, so that we can experience and celebrate holi in Himachal Pradesh. All our booking was done by March first week. 

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Route and stops during the entire journey:

We took, Delhi - Shimla - Rakchham - Tabo - Nako - Kaza - Chicham - Kalpa - Narkanda - Shimla - Delhi route.

The route follows the old Hindustan-Tibet, i.e. HT road, now known as NH5. From Khab bridge, the route runs along with the Sutlej river. Khab, which is the starting point of Khab Sangam, where the Sutlej meets Spiti river. We leave the old HT road, i.e. NH5 and take the NH505 in Kinnaur district. It runs along the Spiti Valley through Kinnaur and enters Lahaul and Spiti district at Sumdo. 

@Sumdo: the entry point to Lahaul and Spiti district 

Route covered during entire journey

Here's the complete stop details:

• Delhi
• Shimla
• Rampur/Sarahan (stay optional)
• Rakchham
• Tabo (stay optional)
• Nako
• Kaza
• Kalpa
• Narkanda (stay optional)
• Shimla
• Delhi

Why Spiti via Shimla:

Acclimatisation forms a major issue, while travelling in the high altitude region. People says, if you travel via Manali to Spiti (the alternate route), you are likely to suffer from Acute Mountain Sickness due to the sudden change in altitude of Kunzam pass or Kaza. However Spiti via Shimla, you may have to travel some extra miles but you will have a comfortable journey as the roads provide gradual ascent. 

Best time to visit Spiti in winters:

Jan-March is the perfect time to experience winter in Spiti. During this time, you may face some issues, like, in many high altitude passes and road became inaccessible due to heavy snowfall or landslides. For which advisable to have buffer day, to avoid such situation.

Weather was cold during March. The temperature in Kaza, Nako, Tabo, Chitkul during day time between -1 to -8°C and during night it dips to -20°C.

Picture captured somewhere in Kaza

Entire journey (in day to day form):

Day1: Delhi to Shimla

@Zingbud Stand, RK Ashram, Delhi

It was 16:45, my flight landed at Terminal-1 (IGI Airport), Delhi. Then met my other friend at IGI airport with one of her colleague. We decided to go to CP and roam around. Then had dinner before boarded the bus at 21:45. Volvo bus ticket, was booked by "Thrillophilia", and the starting point was Zingbus Stand, RK Ashram, Delhi. Where we met our other travel group members (Harshul, Parth, Manas, Poojababu, Shaivy and Vipra) and introduced ourselves with each other. Driving time 8-9 hours, based on the traffic congestion at Shimla. The bus usually stays in between, after crosses the city traffic, for dinner. It was a super cool place, a north Indian dhaba (roadside food stall), where our bus halt for dinner. Soon we get down from bus saw the amazing crowd, who was grooving, to the music, i.e. old Bollywood songs, 90's songs, performing by the local band. 

Day2: Shimla to Rakchham 

@Shimla Hotel, for breakfast

By 07:30 morning, our bus reached at Shimla, bus stand. After getting down from bus, we met our tour assist Sunilkumar and driver Sandeep. They helped us to tied our luggages to the roof of tempo traveller. I jumped into the single seat, left hand side, second row. Before heading towards Narkanda, we stopped at a restaurant for freshen up and breakfast. Here, all introduced with another two members, part the group (Abhishek and Shamit), who joined us from Shimla. The journey from Shimla to Rakchham takes about 9-10 hour. On the way to Rakchham, you will come across, the famous tourist spot Sangla. The roads were easy to navigate and comfortable. In between we stopped in some places for lunch, tea, snacks. We checked-in our hotel in Rakchham, around 19:30. We all were tired after the dinner and retired for the night.

Day3: Rakchham to Nako

@Rakcham, Rupin river view Hotel

06:30 alarm time, waked up. The view from our hotel room balcony was breathtaking. The valley, with white mountain caps, rippling and gurgling peaceful sound of the stream, everything was like watching a movie. By 08:30, after finishing the breakfast and checked out from hotel, went for small hiking to see the nearby places. Soon we started our journey towards, Chitkul, India's last village. Spent sometime in a hostel, had lunch, clicked some pictures. Here you will find the Sutlej river flowing down the majestic Himalayas and passing through the rocky terrain of Kinnaur. Our next destination was Nako Village. On the way to Nako, we experience scenic beauty. The day was brighter which provided us with clear views of the landscapes. Around 20:00 we reach, Nako village where in a homestay, rooms were booked for us. It was freaking cold. Local Spiti people usually use Angithi (traditional brazier used for space heating and cooking). It was such difficult night that, I couldn't get proper sleep, due to the room and it's arrangements , which was not good at all . That's why am not recommending the homestay for Nako stay option. Retired from Day3 and eagerly waiting for our next prime destination, Kaza. 

On the way to Tabo

@Nako village, Norbulinga Homestay Road

Day4: Nako to Kaza via Tabo

Due to sleepless night, waked up around 05:30 early morning. By 08:30 everyone got ready and finished breakfast and checked-out the homestay. Again the day started with short hiking to cover Nako Village, Nako Lake, Nako Monastery. Witnessed the locality, their people and culture. 

Photo captured at Nako Monastery

@Nako Lake, with the group 

Before moving to Kaza, visited "Ajanta of the Himalayas" - Tabo monastery. Which is the oldest continuously operating Buddhist enclave in both India and entire Himalaya. You can also choose to stay in Tabo but, Nako is much more scenic than Tabo. We had our lunch at Tabo, where tasted perfect Lemmon Tea. The road from Tabo to Kaza is very beautiful, surrounded by unique landscapes. The beauteous landscapes throughout the way keep you entertained and jovial. It's one of the best route to capture in camera. You will have plenty of time for sightseeing and you will truly appreciate the scenic beauty around you. Finally, 17:30 we reached Kaza homestay, where gain Altitude of 3800m. The homestay was too clean and located in beautiful place, surrounded by white mountains. After 21:00 dinner, we rest for the day. The night was amazing, after a sleepless night, got good sleep.

@Tabo Monastery 

Day5: Stay at Kaza and explore the key places

A very good morning it was, waked up at 07:00. We all were ready by 09:00 after a healthy breakfast. It was a full packed day. Explored many places: 

• Langza the big Buddha statue surrounded by snow capped mountains.
• Komic, the highest village in the world connected by motorable road.
• Hikkim, where the world's highest postoffice present. Sent postcards from Hikkim postoffice to our family, friends. 
• Key Gompa, on the way back from Hikkim, halt in this place for a Maggie cooking session, for our lunch.

Blue sheep (Bharal) picture captured on the way back from Hikkim

@Hikkim Post Office

@Komic

• Kibber, the roads from here further lead your way to Chicham bridge, the highest suspension bridge in Asia. The bridge located at a height of 4200m above sea level. In Chicham, we spotted a fox, and Siberian Ibex (Dark brown wild goats). Our trip assist and driver prepared tea for us. Perfect ginger tea and biscuit for the perfect evening. 

@Chicham, the Asia's highest suspension bridge

We remained at Chicham for an hour. With the memories for lifetime in our eyes, we descended down, reached Kaza homestay. It was 21:00 our dinner was ready. As soon as we were done with dinner, the homestay organiser, showed some wool crafts, which was made by local ladies. Bought one of woollen winter cap. Time to retire for the day with all sweet memories. It was advisable by our trip assist (Sunil), to start the journey towards Kalpa early so that, we can reach hotel and enjoy bonfire.  

Day6: Kaza to Kalpa

06:30 alarm time, the wake up time. After a nice breakfast, we all ready to go back to Kalpa. It was again a long journey, around 7-8 hours of driving time.

@Kalpa Mansion, Kalpa

In between we stopped in 2-3 places for short break and lunch. It was evening 18:30 when, we checked-in  hotel. Staying overnight in Kalpa, under the moonlit sky with Kinnaur Kailash mountains in the backdrop was real bliss. By 21:00 we had our dinner, and ready for bonfire. During bonfire, we all had great time sharing different stories. This was the last night spending with another wonderful group of people from different parts of India. Next day, Holi celebration day, yes, "Holi hai!!" 🌈 

Kinnaur Kailash Peak

Day7: Kalpa to Narkanda 

Time to celebrate Holi. By 08:30, we were done with breakfast. Packed the luggages. Time to celebrate Holi, for the first time, in Himachal Pradesh. 

Group selfie, colour celebration 

Celebrated Holi for 30 minutes and then all were ready to go back to Narkanda, where the group going to drop me and my friend at hotel, and then they have to start their journey towards, Delhi via Shimla. As me and my friend was having extra day, as per the itinerary selected by us, during booking. We two wanted to take some rest in Narkanda and explore the place. In between, we stopped after Rampur, to have lunch. By 17:30 group dropped us at hotel, where we bid adieu to each other. We two thought to go to Narkanda market for shopping which was very near hotel. Started walking towards market, but due to Holi holiday most of the shops were closed. We were back to hotel, before sunset. 21:00 o'clock ordered dinner.  After dinner, fell asleep right away.

@Narkanda market

Day8: Narkanda to Shimla ISBT

It was a relax day for both of us, as no wake up alarm call required like other days during the entire trip. After freshen up and had breakfast, we both checked-out the hotel, at 11:30. There was a hatchback car arranged by Thrillophilia, for local site seeing, i.e. Narkanda, Kufri, then driver going to drop us at Shimla ISBT. We visited two places in Narkanda, i.e Hattu peak and Tannu Jubbar lake. Had lunch on a roadside restaurant, way back to Shimla via Kufri. In Kufri, visited Kufri amusement park, which was my 2nd time visit. The last time visited same place during December, 2016. We wanted to do shopping, in Shimla Mall Road, But due to traffic congestion, before 10 KM, back Shimla, we couldn't able to shop properly in Mall Road. It was 21:00, when the Volvo started the journey back to Delhi. After one and half hour, the bus stopped at roadside food stall for dinner. This way ended with last night of the trip.

Day9: Back to Delhi

Our bus reached Delhi, Kashmiri Gate stop, at morning 05:30. Then we booked OLA cab to Terminal2, IGI airport. On the way to airport, was recollecting the Spiti valley experience, how the place was in my mind since was completed my last trek to "Kedarkantha Peak". Everything about the trip was beautiful, first of all the place, i.e the cold desert, entire group people, clear skies-stars-moon, frozen lake, animals. For me this is one more lifetime experience added in the memory. If Spiti is in your travel bucklist, hope after reading this blog, will help them preparing their itinerary. And, yes always keep in mind, "Great thing never comes from comfort zones". 

People of Spiti, their culture, occupation:

People of Spiti, have to face lot of hardships, especially during winter, due to high elevation, heavy snow, less vegetation, harsh terrain and being cut-off from the outside world for 3-4 months due to road closure. Spiti often referred to the land of "Lamas", is a Buddhist land. Tourism i.e. hotel, homestay, restaurants, travel agencies, artistic and craft work are the main source of livelihood for the locals of Spiti Valley. 

Locals of Spiti 

Some important points to note:

• In Spiti, BSNL and Reliance Jio network is very good. Even the internet speed is high. 
• Woollen and proper warm clothes should be, must carry item for all the season, Spiti valley.
• Instead of travelling directly to Rakchham or Chitkul, from Shimla, better stay in either Narkanda or Kalpa, for comfortable journey onwards.
• Don't forget to carry a power bank.
• Local Spiti people accepts all kind of latest payment modes (like, UPI/GPay/PhonePe/Paytm etc), for any kind of purchase.
• Per day room heater cost starting from Rs.300-500/-, in different places. In some homestay you will get angithi, which is local Spitian's traditional room heater.
• In homestay, don't expect the luxury like hotels, especially in high altitude places.
• Must carry garbage bags to dispose the trash, instead of throwing in valley or roadside.
• Hydrate your body as much as possible during entire trip. In high altitude places, drink sufficient water to avoid shortness of breath. 
• Local dishes and beverages you must try are: Butter Tea, Seabuckthron Juice, Momo (made of wheat flour), Teemo, Thukpa. Most of places you can easily get Lemmon Tea as well.        

Hotel/Homestay Recommendation: 

• Rakchham - Hotel Rupin River View
• Nako (Recommending if you have lesser homestay options) - Norbulinga Homestay
• Kaza - Kunkhen Homestay
• Kalpa - Kalpa Mansion
• Narkanda - Narkanda Hills